
I'm certainly no expert on Cajun or Creole cuisine. But like art, you know what you like. And having a few days in New Orleans to reacquaint myself with some fine New Orleans cooking was something to look forward to. In fact, dining alone is sufficient reason to book vacation packages to The Big Easy (not that there aren't plenty of other reasons to do so).
My immersion was to start at the top, with dinner at Arnaud's. Arnaud's was opened in 1918 by a French wine salesman, Arnaud Dazenave. Around 1988 the restaurant was sold, and the Casbarian family restored the restaurant. Arnaud's takes up an entire side of a block. Truth be told, we dined here as part of a large group, in the Creole Cottage room next door to the main restaurant. As it turned out, this was the most disappointing meal during our stay, sad to say. I'm sure dining at Arnaud's on own would have offered a different experience than the catered group experience. But I checked, and the dishes we had were all on the main menu. The crab and shrimp appetizer was unremarkable, the gumbo was thickened too much and salty, and the trout almondine and beef filet were tasty enough, though I could do without the thick bernaise. The presentation was lackluster. Service was uneven and noisy, and our waiter wasn't well schooled in service etiquette. The china was the same I used to eat on daily in my college cafeteria decades ago. Somewhat of a letdown as we were expecting fine service and fine dining.

Next up was lunch as Commander's Palace. Again, we dined as part of a group, but service was top notch and attentive, and the food was a step up and creatively prepared and presented. Gumbo was far superior to Arnaud's, and the hickory-smoked Gulf fish nicely prepared and served on a salad with pineapple, which provided a perfect accent. The coup de grace was the exceptional creme brulee, complete with a powdered sugar fleur de lys. Commander's Palace, located in the chic Garden District (Sandra Bullock's house is a block away), offers indoor or outdoor dining. (While here, it's worth wandering the neighborhood and gawk at some of the splendid homes. You might also check out the fine art gallery on the corner across the street, or meander through the cemetary across the way.)
I couldn't miss jazz brunch at the Court of Two Sisters, in the heart of the French Quarter. There are numerous choices available here, and the food was good, but not exceptional. It is, after all, a buffet. But the variety was huge, and a chance for some ceviche, jambalaya, duck, andouille sausage, seafood omelettes, corn bread, sweet potato salads and bread pudding.
There are many fine restaurants in town, both old and new, but it seemed a visit to New Orleans required our dining at one of Emiril's three notable restaurants. We selected Delmonico's, which seemed to be favored by locals. The location was a former two-story home, and so it's comprised of smaller dining spaces on the first and second floors. Here one can enjoy charcuterie made on premises, as well as dry-aged steak. For starters we shared the moist and mouth-melting crab cake, the perfectly prepared gumbo and lamb meatballs served on a delicious caponata relish. Our entrees were a wonderful shrimp in creole sauce and excellent moroccan-spiced lamb, with butternut squash. Ok, we shared the pumpkin breadpudding, which was the perfect sweet to cap off a delightful evening. And if you like gin, be sure to try some of the exquisite Death's Door gin available at the bar.
We went to Stanley's, right on Jackson Square, for lunch and some po'boy's. The kalbi beef was overpriced but tasty, and the cornbread fried oyster poor boy was tasty and fit the bill. The sweet potato fries were the best I've had. Service here was attentive and on the mark, surprising as the place was packed and popular on a Sunday morning. During this visit we avoided the touristy and crowded Cafe du Monde, and instead had wonderful beignets on the patio at Cafe Beignet accompanied by a fine jazz crooner.
What are your favorite New Orleans dining spots?
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